The shoulder construction

The architecture of the suit

Among all the elements of a suit, the shoulder is undoubtedly the one that most immediately defines the look. It structures the build, influences posture, and conveys a clear message: authority, balance, or relaxation. Each tailoring tradition has imprinted its culture on it: the French, British, or Italian shoulder embodies a different relationship to style and silhouette.

The French shoulder: a very structured shoulder

Structured authority

Heavily padded, with firm and pronounced padding, the French shoulder gives a straight and imposing line. It visually broadens the shoulders and imposes a hieratic stature. A symbol of authority, it remains the standard in formal environments where seriousness and stability are expected.

To be favored if:

  • You operate in a hierarchical or institutional professional setting
  • You are looking to enhance your visual presence
  • You want a classic and assertive silhouette

The British shoulder: a slightly structured shoulder

Versatile balance

Slightly padded, the British shoulder follows the line of the body without excess. Softer than the French but still structured, it embodies the pragmatic rigor of Savile Row: elegant, practical, and suited for everyday life. It is the most versatile option, between formal and chic relaxation.

To be favored if:

  • You are looking for a suit that can be used at the office as well as in the evening
  • You want a balance between structure and comfort
  • You like understated but not rigid silhouettes

The Italian shoulder: a deconstructed shoulder

Refined relaxation

Devoid of padding, the Italian shoulder – often referred to as 'Neapolitan' – naturally follows the line of the body. It expresses sunshine, lightness, and freedom of movement. Fluid and spontaneous, it particularly suits summer fabrics and sophisticated casual jackets.

To be favored if:

  • You prioritize ease and relaxed elegance
  • You are looking for a light jacket for summer
  • You love soft and lively silhouettes

The final word

The shoulder of a suit is its cultural architecture. French, British, or Italian, each translates a posture, a heritage, and a way of standing.

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