In bespoke men's suits, each element expresses something: the width of the lapels, the length of the jacket, the flexibility of a shoulder... The language is discreet but powerful.
Among these details, the lapel is undoubtedly one of the most eloquent.

The notched lapel

The safe bet

The notched lapel (or notched lapel) is by far the most common. Its discretion makes it a natural ally of the professional wardrobe. Easy to wear, it adapts to almost all contexts: client meetings, internal meetings, or presentations before a CODIR, COMEX, or any other important meeting.

Its elegance rests on two key parameters: the position of the notch (ideally at collarbone height) and the width of the lapel, which should remain proportionate to the silhouette.

To be favored if:

  • You work in finance, law, consulting, or administration
  • You are looking for a versatile suit with no risk
  • You choose a two-button jacket (available to order) or three-button "rolled two" (special order)

The peak lapel

Subtle power

While the notched lapel embodies sobriety, the peak lapel (peak lapel) plays in a more assertive register. Historically associated with the double-breasted suit, it can also adorn a straight jacket with great presence. Its ascending line visually elongates the silhouette, broadens the shoulders, and confers a natural authority.

To be favored if:

  • You hold responsibilities or wish to subtly suggest them
  • You seek to stand out with elegance, without excess
  • You wear a double-breasted suit or a straight jacket with a strong style

The shawl lapel.

The touch of artists.

Recognizable by its continuous curve without notch or point, the shawl lapel belongs to the world of tuxedos and evening wear. It evokes fluid elegance, refined gestures, and a certain taste for staging. It is the preferred choice of creatives, but also for grand occasions.

To be favored if:

  • You operate in a creative universe and wish to assert a unique identity.
  • You are looking for a timeless evening or ceremonial suit.
  • You enjoy references to vintage elegance. 

The mao collar.

Assertive minimalism.

Without a lapel, the mao collar disrupts traditional codes. Inspired by Asian jackets and military uniforms, it is characterized by a straight and short collar, closed at the throat. This absence of visual break creates a clean and contemporary silhouette.

To be favored if:

  • You work in a creative or artistic environment.
  • You are looking for a minimalist and modern suit.
  • You enjoy atypical cultural and clothing references.

The final word

A well-chosen lapel doesn't stand out, but it changes everything. It conveys a posture: embracing your role without disguising yourself, asserting your taste without imposing it. Even before you speak, it already says something about you.

In the Hamel configurator, or during a fitting in-store, every detail can be adjusted so that your suit speaks exactly the language you want. After all, a well-thought-out lapel is sometimes worth a thousand words.

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